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meinyourkitchen

“Healthy. Delicious. Food.”

October 24, 2011 New Garlic & Mushroom Braised Cornmeal Crusted Tofu w. White Wine & Capers Sauce

That title is a mouthful, I know. Thankfully, so is the recipe. This is a perfect fall dish utilizing some beautiful seasonal ingredients and maximizing the Autumnal flavors. I based this recipe on a meal I make quite regularly for clients – usually with chicken. I have adapted it here for the vegan/vegetarians, but you could absolutely substitute the tofu for chicken (or most any other protein for that matter). It will obviously impact your cooking times, so be sure to research how long you’ll need to braise whatever protein you choose. Or you can ask me.

In a classic braise, there are four main steps. 1) Brown whatever protein you’re using in a hot pan. 2) Remove protein and saute your vegetables to create the base for your braising liquid. 3) Add liquid to base and cook until the flavors have married. 4) Return protein to the pan/pot and simmer in the sauce until tender and ready to eat.

On its own, Tofu doesn’t really have the type of surface that lends itself to proper browning. So I’ve dredged it in a little bit of course corn meal (Polenta) to help facilitate a nice outer crust. This gives the tofu some crunch as well as some added flavor and texture. Perhaps just as importantly, I have pressed the tofu for a couple of hours. By virtue of the fact that it is stored in water, tofu is inherently moist and waterlogged. So the best way to eliminate all of that excess moisture is simply to wrap it in paper towel and put something flat and heavy on top of it. This is a great occasion to finally take War & Peace out of your bookshelf and put it to good use. It’s not going to read itself you know, so you might as well put it to work. Draining the water out will make the tofu sturdier, better able to withstand high heat and ultimately result in a far superior mouth-feel. Braising is in some ways counter-intuitive. You spend the first few minutes creating a crust only to spend the rest of the time cooking it in liquid. This is the beauty of the braise; crunchy outside, tender middle. You know, like Mr. T.

The sauce itself is super easy. You can make this with just garlic, mushrooms, stock (or water) and white wine.
I have added some vegetables to amplify the flavor (onion, carrot, celery and parsnip), but you can’t go wrong with garlic, mushrooms and white wine. You’ll see in the recipe below that it calls for an entire head of garlic. This may sound like a lot, but as it cooks down, it becomes sweet and warm, losing all of its harsh “garlickyness”. I served this dish to my father (w. chicken) who believes that garlic is the work of Lucifer and should be avoided at all times. He loved it. Also, he might be a vampire. So be brave, don’t hold back on the garlic. Even vampires love this dish.

I served this over steamed kale and polenta. The polenta works well as it compliments the corn meal crust of the tofu beautifully and the kale adds some lovely green earthiness. As a rule, I try to incorporate protein, whole grains and leafy greens in every savory meal. I’m not the boss of you though, so serve this however you see fit.

I recommend using an enamel pot (Le Creuset, etc) as it definitely produces the best cooking environment. The tofu won’t stick to the bottom when you’re browning it and it distributes the heat evenly throughout the pan.

Recipe below:

Garlic & Mushroom Braised Cornmeal Crusted Tofu w. White Wine & Capers Sauce
Yields 2 Servings

Ingredients

1/2 Lbs Tofu, pressed for two hours and cut into triangles
3 Tablespoons Extra Virgin Olive Oil (plus more for garnish)
1/2 Lbs Mushrooms (any kind will do), quartered
1 Head (at least 8 cloves) garlic, lightly smashed
1/8 Teaspoon Fresh Chili (optional)
1 Onion, small dice
1 Carrot, small dice
1 Celery Stalk, small dice
1/2 Parsnip, small dice
1 Cup Vegetable Stock (or water, or whatever stock you have on hand – if you find you need more, make sure you have some)
1/2 Cup White Wine (Pinot Grigio works best)
2 Tablespoons Capers
1/2 Cup Course Ground Corn Meal
Two Sprigs Fresh Thyme
Sea Salt and Fresh Ground Black Pepper to taste

Procedure

  1. Pour 2 tablespoons of olive oil into pot over medium high heat
  2. Rub a little oil on both sides of tofu triangles, season with salt and pepper and dredge in corn meal.  Add to pot.
  3. Saute on both sides until golden brown (3-4 minutes per side).  Remove from pot.
  4. Add another tablespoon of oil and add mushrooms.  Saute until brown and caramelized.
  5. Add onion, carrot, celery, parsnips and a good pinch of salt.  Stir well.
  6. Add garlic cloves and saute until fragrant.
  7. Deglaze the pan with wine and bring to a simmer.
  8. Add stock and another pinch of salt.  Bring to a slow boil.  Taste liquid and adjust seasoning if necessary.
  9. Return tofu to pot and nestle between the vegetables.  The liquid should cover 1/3 – 1/2 of the tofu.
  10. Add thyme and capers and simmer gently for a minute or two.
  11. Cover pot, lower heat and let cook for 20-30 minutes allowing all of the flavors to come together.
  12. If sauce is too thin, remove tofu, raise heat to med-high and reduce until the sauce reaches desired thickness.
  13. Pour sauce and vegetables on plate (or on top of whatever else you’re serving it with).  Nestle tofu on top.
  14. Drizzle with olive oil and serve.

Copyright © 2011 David Wallace. All rights reserved.

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September 30, 2011 Potato, Asparagus, Lentil & Mushroom Tart

This is not a tart in the truest sense of the word.  There is no crust to speak of.  If you wanted to fight me on whether or not this is a tart, you’d probably win.  But I’m at a loss for what else to call it.  So, barring anybody coming over here to fight me (FightInMyKitchen), this is going to be called a tart.  Semantics, semantics, this thing is delicious.

I based it on a recipe I saw Mario Batali make on Molto Mario.  His was made with potatoes, asparagus and mushrooms.  I’ve added lentils and a little pan sauce, so unless he wants to come over here to fight me (MeDeadInMyKitchen), this is now my recipe.  It works well as an entree for brunch, lunch or dinner.  Or you could serve it as a side dish.  I’ve made it a few times now and have substituted out the potato for Butternut Squash which was also very good:

You could try it with Sweet Potato, Cauliflower or any other starchy vegetable that purees nicely.  I’m open to suggestions.

There are multiple steps here, all of them simple, none particularly time-consuming and all of them worth the trouble.  I suppose I always say that, and perhaps you are of the mind that the less work the better.  Fair enough.  I believe that cooking should be fun, not laborious, but that doesn’t mean it can’t be challenging.  I do it all day, every day.  If I still get enjoyment out of it, hopefully you can too.  Trust me, there are days when I come home after a long day of cooking for other people, when the last thing I want to do is cook dinner for my family.  Sometimes, we order in.  But most of the time, I get some idea in my head of what I’d like to cook and once I get going, I’m always glad I made the effort.

That being said, you could cut down some of the cooking time by buying canned lentils.  Or, you could hire me to make this for you.  Canned organic lentils cost about $1.99. I’m a little more expensive.

Quick tip:  You will need to blanch the asparagus prior to sauteing it.  I find it makes them softer and easier to eat when the dish has finished baking.  Simply fill a medium sauce pot with cold, salted (salty as the ocean my dears) water.  Bring to a boil.  Drop in the asparagus, and when the water comes back to a boil, immediately remove them.  If you’re not going to be sauteing them for a while, put them in a bowl of ice water to stop the cooking.  But my suggestion would be to use the water you’ve boiled your potatoes in (or squash, cauliflower, etc) and once they’re blanched, saute them right away.

Recipe below:

Potato, Asparagus, Lentil & Mushroom Tart
Yields 4-6 Servings

Ingredients

3 Medium Yukon Gold Potatoes (you can use Russet/Baking/Idaho Potatoes instead), cut into medium chunks
1 Bunch Asparagus, Trimmed, cut in half
1/4 Cup Dry Lentils (or half cup cooked/canned)
6 Cremini Mushrooms, thinly sliced
3 Garlic Cloves, 1 left whole, 2 thinly sliced
1/4 Cup Vegetable Stock
4 Thyme Sprigs, 2 whole, 2 finely chopped
1/4 Cup Olive Oil
1/4 Teaspoon Paprika
Pinch of Red Chili Flakes (optional)
Sea Salt and Fresh Ground Black Pepper to taste

Procedure

  1. Pre-Heat oven to 375F
  2. Chop potatoes into chunks and put in a medium pot with cold, salted water.  Bring to a boil, lower heat and cook until fork soft.
  3. Meanwhile, rinse lentils thoroughly and put into a small pot of cold water (about 1/2 – 3/4 Cup).  Add one whole garlic clove, two thyme sprigs and a couple pinches of salt.
  4. Bring to a boil, lower heat and cover.  Cook until soft (about 20 minutes).  Remove from pot and set aside.
  5. When potatoes are soft, remove from pot (reserving the water to blanch asparagus), season with salt, pepper and a splash of olive oil and mash until soft and fluffy.  Set aside.
  6. Bring water back to boil, add asparagus and remove when water returns to boil (30-60 seconds).
  7. In a medium saute pan heat 2 tablespoons of olive oil over medium-high heat.
  8. When oil is glistening, add asparagus and saute until they begin to caramelize.  Do not fuss with the pan.  Let the oil and heat do their thing.
  9. Once they’ve begun to color, season with salt and pepper and add a clove of sliced garlic.
  10. Add a couple of spoonfuls of blanching water, vegetable stock or tap water to prevent garlic from burning.  Cook for a couple of minutes until Asparagus begin to soften but retain their vibrant green color.  Remove from pan and set aside.
  11. Add another tablespoon or so of olive oil to the pan, increase heat to high and add mushrooms.  Saute until they’re golden brown and have released their liquid.  Season with salt and pepper, a pinch of chopped thyme and a pinch of red chili flakes.  Remove mushrooms and set aside.
  12. In the same pan, add another tablespoon of olive oil, another sliced garlic clove and the remaining vegetable stock.
  13. Season with a pinch of salt and some more of the chopped thyme.  Bring to a boil and allow to reduce by about 1/3 until thicker and saucier.  Remove from heat.
  14. Now, spread half of the potatoes along the bottom of an oven safe pie dish (or comparable piece of equipment).
  15. Spread half the lentils on top of the potatoes creating a second layer.
  16. Spread the asparagus on top of the lentils.
  17. Spread the remaining potatoes on top of the lentils.
  18. Now create a border with the mushroom slices along the top.
  19. Pour the sauce all over the top so that it seeps down into the entire mixture.
  20. Bake in the oven for 25 minutes.  Remove, dust with paprika and remaining chopped thyme.
  21. Serve hot and enjoy.

Copyright © 2011 David Wallace. All rights reserved.

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September 28, 2011 Frittata w. Cherry Tomatoes, Fresh Ricotta & Scallions

Sorry for the uber long pause. I’ve been so busy cooking, I’ve had no time to cook. If that makes any sense. Regardless, I have some time today and want to share a quick and easy Frittata recipe with you. I make Frittata semi-regularly, be it for clients or friends. Back when I was working at a catering company, I made them very regularly as they were a staple of our breakfast menu. I will never forget the first time I had to flip a Frittata out of the pan and onto the cutting board to slice up for breakfast delivery. It was about 6:30 in the morning – my boss showed up unannounced to make sure everything went out smoothly. I had cooked the Frittata perfectly and when it had cooled off sufficiently I covered the pan with a cutting board, flipped it over and then proceeded to miss my work surface by about a foot, sending the fluffy egg mixture on a brief adventure that ended on the floor. Needless to say, an F-Bomb of epic proportions was released from the mouth (it was a full body F-bomb, really) of my boss and I have never made the same mistake twice. In reality – it’s not a difficult thing to do. Any of you who know me well can attest to the fact that if there’s a will, I will always find the way.

When it comes to eggs, I NEVER make any exceptions. I only buy eggs that come from pastured chickens, fed a diet of worms and dirt and whatever else chickens like to eat. No cages, no hormones or antibiotics, no grain diets. Not only do I believe that treating chickens humanely is the right and responsible thing to do, but there is no comparison in taste and color when it comes to the eggs. The choice is yours, they are slightly more expensive, but you absolutely get what you pay for.

Frittata – an Italian style omelet made with any combination of vegetables, cheeses, meats and herbs.  I chose cherry tomatoes, fresh whole-milk ricotta and scallions because I had them in my fridge.  But you can really use anything that suits your fancy.  I prefer to use a combination of vegetable, cheese and either a fresh herb or leafy green.  Better to keep it simple, I say.  For the carnivores among us, bacon, prosciutto, ham, salami, soprasetta, ground beef (or pork, chicken, turkey, etc.) or sausage will all work really well.  I like to saute my vegetables prior to adding the eggs.  I then pour the eggs on top of the vegetables, add the cheese and then let the eggs begin to set on top of the stove before baking it in a 375F oven for 25 minutes or so.  You’re looking for the top to be golden brown and for the whole concoction to puff up like so many cumulus clouds.

Quick Tip: Make sure to butter the sides of your pan prior to cooking.  Lest you find yourself with a bunch of egg goo stuck to the sides, thus ruining what was otherwise a perfectly good meal.  The technical term for this is No Bueno.  So remember kids, butter your pan sides.

Recipe below:

Frittata w. Cherry Tomatoes, Whole-Milk Ricotta & Scallions
Yields 4-6 Servings

Ingredients

12 Eggs
2 Tablespoons of Butter
1/4 Cup Fresh Whole Milk
1 Cup Cherry Tomatoes, halved (or quartered if they’re exceptionally large)
3 Scallions, finely chopped (use the white part inside and the green tops as garnish)
4-6 Tablespoons Fresh Whole-Milk Ricotta
4 Good Pinches Sea Salt
2 Teaspoons Fresh Ground Black Pepper

Procedure

  1. Pre-heat oven to 375F
  2. In a medium bowl combine eggs, milk, 3 pinches of salt and pepper and mix together.  Don’t over beat the eggs.
  3. In an oven-safe pan, add butter over medium heat making sure to spread the butter up the sides of the pan as it starts to melt.
  4. Saute scallions and tomatoes in butter.  Add remaining pinch of salt.
  5. When vegetables are soft, pour eggs into pan, making sure all of the vegetables are covered.
  6. Add the ricotta in spoonfuls, spreading evenly all over the mixture.
  7. Continue to cook until the eggs begin to set (5 minutes or so).
  8. Place pan in oven and cook for 25 minutes or until the top is golden brown and the Frittata has puffed up.
  9. Remove from oven and set aside to cool.  Make sure that the edges of the Frittata have come loose from the sides of the pan.  Use a rubber spatula to help the eggs along if this hasn’t happened.
  10. When it’s cool enough to work with, take a cutting board that is at least the same size as the pan and place it on top.  Making sure you’re above your work surface, flip the pan upside down so that the Frittata slides out, remove the pan.  You should now have a Frittata ready to slice on your cutting board.
  11. Using a bread knife, slice into 12 wedges.
  12. Garnish with scallion tops and serve.

Copyright © 2011 David Wallace. All rights reserved.

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August 6, 2011 Zucchini “Pasta” w. Fresh Tomato Sauce

We eat a LOT of pasta in our house. Maybe TOO much pasta? I can’t say for sure, but I wish you’d stop judging me.

Anyway – zucchini, when cut into very thin strips (or Julienne if you’re French), can really mimic the look and mouth feel of pasta, without imparting all of those empty calories. And of course, if you have a gluten intolerance (I’m looking at you Mother-In-Law o’ mine), this is a great way to enjoy a pasta dish. If you’re having a hard time getting your kids or significant other to eat vegetables, this would also be a perfect way to sneak some into a meal.  I used a knife to cut the zucchini and it was pretty time-consuming. If you have a mandolin you’ll save yourself a lot of time using the thinnest Julienne attachment. Additionally you could try using a vegetable peeler and peeling the zucchini into broader strips. Sort of like a tagliatelle sized noodle. Either way, once you’ve sliced them, put them into a colander and add a generous amount of salt (2-3 good pinches), toss a few times and then let sit for 15 minutes or so to help extract the moisture. This will create a sturdier noodle, one that will be able to hold its shape and handle the sauce.

Speaking of the sauce…This is a sauce I would only make during the summer and early fall months (specifically August-October). I’m using fresh tomatoes here. Ones that actually grew in soil, were planted and harvested by humans and taste like tomatoes. As opposed to say, those tomatoes that appear in our supermarkets the rest of the year that are grown in sand or hydroponic tubs, are picked when they’re rock-hard and green and taste sort of like “tomato”. They’re a tomato facsimile. If they were advertised on TV, the tag line would be, “now with the great taste of tomato”. OK, off of my tangential soap-box. Back to the sauce. I used a very ripe, juicy, gnarly looking Jersey tomato. Sadly, the photos I took of it did it no justice. So you’ll have to just take my word for it. It was a good-looking (albeit gnarly) tomato. All you’ll need to make this sauce is the aforementioned tomato, some onion, garlic, fresh chili, fresh basil, thyme and oregano, a little olive oil and some salt and pepper. I added about a teaspoon of tomato paste as well to boost the tomato flavor, but it certainly isn’t a necessity. This is a super simple dish. It tastes great, is light without being unsubstantial and packs a nutritional punch that you wouldn’t ordinarily get from pasta.

Of course, you could make this dish using canned San Marzano tomatoes in place of fresh tomatoes when they’re not in season, or you could take a different approach and serve it with a basil or mint pesto. It would also be delicious with a simple brown butter and sage sauce. Just like traditional pasta, your options are only limited by your imagination.

Recipe below:

Zucchini “Pasta” w. Fresh Tomato Sauce
Yields 2 Servings

Ingredients

2 Medium Zucchini, sliced into thin strips
1 Large Beefsteak Jersey Tomato, small dice
2 Garlic cloves, thinly sliced
1 Medium Onion, small dice
1/8 Teaspoon of fresh chili, minced (optional)
10-12 Fresh Basil Leaves, finely chopped
2 Sprigs Fresh Thyme Leaves, finely chopped
1-2 Sprigs of Fresh Oregano
1 Teaspoon Tomato Paste
1-2 Tablespoons Extra Virgin Olive Oil
1/2-1 Tablespoon of sea salt for the zucchini
Pinch Crushed Red Chili Pepper
Sea Salt & Fresh Ground Black Pepper to taste

Procedure

  1. Slice the zucchini into thin strips (Julienne), put into a colander, add salt, toss gently and let sit for 15 minutes until liquid is exuded
  2. Pour oil into a medium saute pan over medium heat, add onion, a pinch of salt and saute until translucent
  3. Add garlic and chili sauteing until fragrant (30 seconds or so)
  4. Add tomatoes, another good pinch of salt and bring to a gentle simmer
  5. When the tomatoes have started to break down (5-7 minutes or so) crush them with the back of a wooden spoon (you’re not looking for a totally smooth sauce here, but you want to have a “saucier” consistency)
  6. Stir in half the fresh herbs and the tomato paste (optional)
  7. Let simmer gently until it has reduced by roughly 1/3 and the tomatoes have completely broken down (about 10-15 minutes)
  8. Add crushed red chili pepper and salt and pepper to taste
  9. Meanwhile, remove the zucchini from the colander and squeeze out any excess water
  10. Add zucchini to the pan, toss well with the sauce and saute for about 1 minute.
  11. Garnish with remaining herbs and a small drizzle of olive oil (and a squirt of fresh lemon juice if you have some on hand)
  12. Serve and Enjoy

Copyright © 2011 David Wallace. All rights reserved.

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July 6, 2011 Smokey Quinoa Salad w. Caramelized Onions, Morels, Asparagus, Pomegranate Seeds & Fresh Mint

I don’t know what it’s like where you live, but here in New York (Brooklyn, specifically), whole grain salads are all the rage. I think restaurants and cafes use them as a means to use up surplus ingredients. But that’s OK with me. The beauty of the whole grain salad is that you can be really creative with the components. Combining raw and cooked ingredients makes for a delicious, balanced and exciting dish. You can use any type of whole grain (Millet, Farro, Bulgar, wild rice, brown or white rice all immediately come to mind) and a wide array of vegetables, dried fruits, herbs or meats to create a unique meal in very little time.

I wanted to maximize flavors and seasonality with this dish calling upon the sweetness of caramelized onions, the earthiness of fresh morel mushrooms, the vegetal beauty of asparagus, the tart/sweet combo of pomegranate seeds and combine them with a simple quinoa infused with smoked paprika. Throw in some fresh mint leaves from my garden and life is good. Very good.

This is not a one pot dish. It requires boiling the quinoa, blanching (and shocking) the asparagus, and sauteing the morels and the onions. None of the techniques are difficult, or particularly time-consuming, but it isn’t as simple as just dumping a bunch of stuff into a bowl and mixing it all together. However, I can promise you that the last step does in fact involve dumping a bunch of stuff you’ve just spent 20-30 minutes making into a bowl and mixing it all together. So if that’s your type of thing, hang in there. Stuff will get dumped and mixed.

Smokey Quinoa Salad w. Caramelized Onions, Morels, Asparagus, Pomegranate Seeds & Fresh Mint
Yields 2 Entrees or 4-6 sides

Ingredients

1 Cup Quinoa
1/2 Tablespoon Smoked Paprika
1 Bay Leaf
1 1/2 Cups Fresh Cold Water or Vegetable Stock
3 Tablespoons Extra Virgin Olive Oil (plus more for garnish)
1 Medium Onion, very thinly sliced
1/2 dozen fresh Morel Mushrooms (you can substitute with Cremini, Shitake, Portabello, or dried Morels, Porcini, etc.), thinly sliced
10-12 Trimmed Asparagus Spears, blanched, shocked and chopped into chunks
2 Quarts Cold Water
1 Medium Bowl full of Ice Water
1/2 Cup Pomegranate Seeds
1-2 Tablespoons of Fresh Mint, finely chopped
1 Teaspoon Sea Salt
1/4 Teaspoon Fleur de Sel
1/4 Teaspoon Fresh Ground Black Pepper

Procedure

  1. Heat 1 teaspoon of olive oil over medium heat in a small sauce pan
  2. Add smoked paprika, stir it around so there are no lumps and allow to infuse the oil for 30-60 seconds
  3. Add quinoa to pan and “dry roast” for 2-3 minutes stirring occasionally to prevent the bottom from burning
  4. Pour in the water (or stock) add the bay leaf and a good pinch or two of salt
  5. Bring to a boil, then cover pot, reduce the heat and let cook for 10-15 minutes or until all of the liquid has evaporated
  6. Remove from heat and place in a medium-sized mixing bowl
  7. Meanwhile, pour 2 tablespoons of olive oil into a medium saute pan over medium heat until it begins to glisten
  8. Add onions, being careful not to overcrowd the pan, and saute, stirring occasionally for 15-20 minutes or until the onions are brown
  9. Season with a couple of pinches of sea salt and a grind or two of pepper
  10. Pour onions into a small bowl to cool
  11. In the same pan, add a teaspoon or so of olive oil over medium high heat
  12. Add the mushrooms and much like you did the onions, let them saute until they begin to color without fussing too much with the pan
  13. Season with a pinch or two of salt and pepper
  14. Remove from pan and put into the bowl with the onions
  15. Pour two quarts of water into a medium sauce pan, salt well, cover and bring to a rapid boil over high heat
  16. Meanwhile, fill a medium mixing bowl with ice cubes and water and set aside
  17. When the water has boiled, add trimmed asparagus spears to the pot and blanch for 30 seconds or until the water comes back to a boil
  18. Remove immediately and submerge in ice water to prevent from cooking further
  19. When the asparagus are cool enough to work with, chop into 1/4″ chunks
  20. Combine all ingredients with the quinoa
  21. Add chopped mint and pomegranate seeds and mix well
  22. Season with Fleur de Sel, black pepper and a splash of olive oil
  23. Cover and let cool in the fridge for at least two hours (or overnight)

Copyright © 2011 David Wallace. All rights reserved.

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June 15, 2011 Cold Soba Noodle Salad w. Spicy Peanut Sauce

The apartment building next door and one across the street are both currently under construction. The non-stop sound of drilling is tantamount to dental surgery, sans any sort of dental benefits. It’s like Root Canal, where the canal is of Panamic (new word?) proportions. But I digress. Let me be sucked into the zen like calm of the above photo…

Soba are a Japanese style noodle, traditionally made from Buckwheat (the literal translation of Soba is “Buckwheat”). But can also refer to any thin noodle. You can find them in most good grocery stores, health food stores or Asian markets. I like the Eden Organic brand, though there are a plethora to choose from. Soba are high in essential amino acids and are a healthy source of whole grains. They are a versatile and sturdy noodle, able to hold up well in hot soups and stir frys as well as served cold as the main component of a salad. I love cold noodle salads, especially in warmer weather when I want a substantial meal without having to make my kitchen unnecessarily hot.

This dish is a snap to make and takes very little time. The sauce is composed of smooth peanut butter, rice vinegar, fresh chili pepper, peanut oil, soy sauce and is thickened with Kuzu (refer to this post for more on Kuzu). You can skip the thickening step as it adds zero flavor at all. But there is something nice about the texture of the sauce when it’s thickened. The peanut butter provides a rich creaminess which is balanced nicely by the acidic kick of the vinegar. You can season quite aggressively as the noodles themselves are quite bland on their own and definitely benefit from a bold, flavorful sauce.

A quick note on preparing Soba Noodles.  When you’ve added the noodles to the boiling water, once it returns to a boil, add some cold water.  Repeat this step three times.  It will prevent the noodles from becoming too “gummy”.

Cold Soba Noodle Salad w. Spicy Peanut Sauce
Yields 2 Entrees or 4 Appetizers

Ingredients

For the Salad:
8oz Soba Noodles, boiled and then chilled
1 Red Bell Pepper, thinly sliced
2 Scallions, thinly sliced
1 Avocado, small dice
1/4 Cup Peanuts, crushed
1 Tablespoon Fresh Mint, finely minced
1/4 Teaspoon Toasted Sesame Oil
1 Teaspoon Peanut Oil
1 Cup Cold Water

For the Sauce:
1/2 Cup Smooth Organic Peanut Butter (or make your own)
1 1/2 Tablespoons Rice Vinegar
1/4 Teaspoon Fresh Chili Pepper (jalapeno, Serrano, Thai, etc.), finely minced
1 1/2 Tablespoons Soy Sauce
1 Teaspoon Peanut Oil
1 Clove Garlic, finely minced
1 Teaspoon Brown Sugar
1/2 Tablespoon Kuzu, ground
1/3 Cup Water, boiled

Procedure

  1. Bring two quarts of water to a boil in a medium sauce pan.
  2. Add noodles, adding 1/3 of the cold water when water returns to a boil.  Repeat this procedure three times.
  3. Strain the noodles and immediately submerge in ice water to prevent further cooking and to speed up the chilling process.
  4. Meanwhile, in a small sauce pan, bring 1/3 cup of water to a boil.
  5. Grind the kuzu using a mortar and pestle and add a 1/4 teaspoon of cold water.  Stir until the powder is incorporated.
  6. Whisk the kuzu mixture into the boiling water stirring rapidly for about a minute.
  7. Remove from heat and allow to cool slightly.
  8. Combine the peanut butter, vinegar, soy sauce, fresh chili, garlic, peanut oil and brown sugar in a medium-sized bowl, stirring well until smooth.  Taste and adjust seasoning accordingly.
  9.  Slowly whisk in the kuzu slurry making sure all elements have been well incorporated.  Cover with plastic wrap and put in the fridge for 30 minutes (or longer).
  10. Now remove the noodles from the ice water and toss in a bowl with the peanut and toasted sesame oils.
  11. When the sauce is cool and thickened, remove from the fridge, pour half of it over the noodles and toss well.
  12. Serve noodles in individual bowls, garnish with peppers, scallions, mint, peanuts and avocado.
  13. Spoon remaining sauce over the top of the salad and add another dash or so of toasted sesame oil.

Copyright © 2011 David Wallace. All rights reserved.

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June 11, 2011 An Early Summer Night’s Grilling

There’s just something about food cooking on an open flame (chestnuts/Christmas notwithstanding…) that just seems so right. Perhaps it’s our collective memory connecting to our more primitive selves. I love the whole tactile experience of if. The lighting of the coals, feeling the heat from the fire rise up, hearing the food sizzle as it hits the grill. I feel like all of my senses are being stimulated. Is this getting weird?

As a vegetarian, outdoor grilling challenges me to be creative. It’s not as simple as hot dogs, burgers, chicken wings, etc. My general philosophy is if it has enough surface area to sit on the grill, then it shall be grilled. And anything that lacks the sufficient surface area will be designated to my “mesh” grilling pan . The trick to grilling vegetables is to do it quick and easy. No long marinating. No spice rubs. Salt, pepper, olive oil, garlic, some fresh herbs and lemon juice (or vinegar) is really all you need. The smokey flavor that charcoal grilling infuses into the food is the star of this show. Your job is to add some simple ingredients to enhance that flavor. Let the coals and fire do the rest for you.

Pictured above is a typical summer dinner at Chez MeInYourKitchen. Eggplant, Mushrooms, Zucchini, Kale, Tofu, Scallions, Onions and some bread. We’d ordered Indian Food the evening before and had some left over Naan Bread. Pretty much the only way to make Naan Bread more delicious is to throw it on the grill. You can use any bread that you have on hand. I prefer something that’s been made in an actual bakery, but if all you have is Pepperidge Farm Sandwich bread, then make it happen. Just brush it with a little bit of olive oil and grill for about a minute on each side. When it’s finished, rub it gently with a garlic clove and you will find yourself in smokey, savory Carbtown, USA.

Summer Vegetable Grillfest:
Yields 2-4 servings

Ingredients

1 Medium Eggplant, cut into 1/2″ rounds
2 Zucchini, cut into 1/4″ rounds
8-12 Crimini Mushrooms, stems removed
4oz Extra Firm Tofu, pressed and cut into triangles
1 Bunch of Scallions, tips and tops removed
1 Bunch of Kale
3 Cloves of Garlic – 2 finely minced and one left whole to rub the bread with
1 Onion, sliced
4 Slices of Bread
1/4 Cup of Olive Oil (plus more for brushing/basting)
1 Teaspoon of fresh Lemon Juice (or any good vinegar)
1 Tablespoon of fresh herbs (parsley, thyme, rosemary, oregano, mint, chives, basil – whatever you have on hand), chopped
Sea Salt and Freshly Ground Black Pepper to taste

Procedure

  1. Light your grill (if using charcoal, be sure to create two heating zones by dumping hot coals to one side)
  2. In a large mixing bowl, toss eggplant, zucchini and mushrooms with half of the olive oil, lemon juice, salt, pepper garlic and herbs.  Place on a sheet pan/cookie sheet or roasting pan and set aside.
  3. Now toss the kale, onions and scallions with the remaining oil, lemon juice, salt, pepper, garlic and herbs and set aside.
  4. Brush the tofu triangles with some oil, salt and pepper and set aside.
  5. Brush both sides of the bread with oil and set aside.
  6. Begin grilling the eggplant, zucchini, and mushrooms, ensuring not to crowd the grill and paying close attention to their proximity to the heat.  Place thicker vegetables closer to the direct heat as they won’t cook as quickly.  It’s best to grill in batches unless you have a very large grill.  Try not to move or turn them too quickly.  Depending on how hot your grill is it can take anywhere from 2-5 minutes per side.  If they’re looking a little dry when you flip them, baste with a little bit of oil.
  7. Next place the tofu triangles on the grill and cook until both sides are showing nice grill marks, but the inside is still relatively soft.  Think medium rare.
  8. If you have a mesh grill pan, place the remaining vegetables in it, place it on the grill and cook as if sautéing on a stove top.  You can use any decent sauté or grill pan in its place (you’ll need to add some oil to the pan before putting the vegetables in it) – or carefully place them on the grill top and turn a few times with tongs.
  9. Place the bread on the grill (away from the direct heat).  Cook both sides for about a minute.  Remove from grill and rub gently with a garlic clove.
  10. Garnish vegetables with a splash of olive oil, more fresh herbs and serve with the whole grain of your choice (millet is especially good with grilled vegetables) and a crispy salad.

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June 1, 2011 Cucumber, Lime and Mint Soup w. Fresh Chilli

Well, spring is starting to look and smell a lot like summer here in Brooklyn. Local produce is starting look and taste great and I’ve been spending a lot of time outside in the backyard grilling whatever I can get my hands on. I will post some grilling recipes and photos shortly. But in the meantime, let’s talk about summer soups. While many of us associate soups with colder weather, summer soups are as refreshing as winter soups are warming. A favorite of mine is cucumber soup. Last summer, when I was working in the kitchen of a catering company, I made about 50 gallons of the stuff a week. The recipe I’m posting today resembles that soup only in that it has cucumbers in it. My version is vegan (though it certainly doesn’t have to be), tangy and beautifully spicy.  The traditional recipe calls for yogurt, I used the old trusty cashew cream in it’s place.  If you prefer yogurt, be my guest.  I would recommend a looser, thinner yogurt as opposed to the thicker Greek style yogurts which have most of the liquid removed.  I bought some amazing pickles at the Farmer’s Market recently, made by a company called “Divine Brine”, and in an effort to boost the tang and spice factor of the soup, I chopped up one of their delicious “Devilish Dills” and added it to the recipe.  I’m glad I did.

A quick note on using fresh chilli peppers.  I really like my food spicy so I used the entire pepper.  If you like a milder flavor, then I would suggest removing the seeds from whatever peppers you’re using.  And be sure to wash your hands after working with any chilli pepper.  Especially Anthony Kiedis.  Who knows where that guy’s been?

This soup couldn’t be easier to prepare. All of the ingredients are pureed in a blender until really smooth and then strained into a bowl and chilled for a couple of hours. Voila – Cucumber Soup. You can really get as creative as you want with the recipe – just make sure you use ingredients that are white and/or green to preserve the color.

Recipe below:

Cucumber, Lime and Mint Soup w. Fresh Chilli
Yields 2 servings

Ingredients

2 Cucumbers (I used English, but whatever you have on hand is fine as long as they have seeds), peeled and roughly chopped
1 Pickled Cucumber, roughly chopped
1 Scallion, roughly chopped
1 fresh Chill (I used a Thai Bird, but again, whatever you have in the fridge), finely chopped.
1 Garlic clove, finely chopped
1 Tablespoon of fresh Mint Leaves, roughly chopped
Juice and zest of one Lime (reserve the zest for garnish)
1 Tablespoon of Pickle Brine
3/4 Cup of Cashew Cream (recipe below)
Course Sea Salt and fresh ground black pepper to taste
Whole Mint leaves for garnish
1 Cup of fresh, cold water to thin out soup if necessary

Procedure

  1. Put all of the ingredients into a blender and puree until very smooth.
  2. Add water if soup is too thick.
  3. Strain through a sieve or chinois and chill in a refrigerator for a couple of hours (or overnight).
  4. Serve cold and garnish with fresh mint leaves and lime zest.

Copyright © 2011 David Wallace. All rights reserved.

Cashew Cream
Yields 2 cups

Ingredients

1 cup raw cashews, soaked in cold water for a few hours (in a pinch, you can soak them for a few minutes in very hot water).
1 cup of fresh, cold water
Pinch of sea salt

Procedure

  1. Rinse and strain cashews and place into a blender.
  2. With the blender on, add water slowly until it forms a creamy texture. You’re looking for the consistency of heavy cream.
  3. Season with salt.
  4. Line a strainer with two layers of cheese cloth.
  5. Pour the mixture into the lined strainer, tie the cheesecloth together, and squeeze through the strainer into a bowl. You will be left with a smooth “cream”, free of any graininess.

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April 26, 2011 Truffled Potato, Celery Root & Chanterelle Gratin w. Chard

I adapted this recipe from Heidi Swanson, who adapted it from a Millennium Restaurant recipe. While I loved the structure, flavor and visual appeal of her recipe, I felt it needed some greens for color and added nutritional kick and I thought the techniques as written weren’t totally maximizing the flavors of all of the various ingredients. So rather than cooking everything together before baking in the oven, I am recommending sauteing everything separately before bringing them together with the cream (cashew) and spices and then ultimately baking it in the oven. It means a little extra work, but having prepared this both ways, I can tell you the results are worth the effort.

Let there be no mistake, this is a show stopping dish. Make this for your friends and/or family, like TONIGHT. The fact that it’s dairy free is almost besides the point. Nobody will even know if you don’t tell them. I made this for five carnivorous, cheese and cream loving freaks who never knew that the dish was made without any cream or cheese. That being said, grating some fresh Parmigiano on top does add a delicious nuttiness (and a touch of saltiness), but it absolutely isn’t necessary. This is a rich, creamy, indulgent dish. Comfort food with a hint of sophistication.

A quick note on how to make breadcrumbs. I find the best thing to do is whenever you get to the end of a loaf of bread, set the pieces aside (in a bag, in the freezer, wherever) and when you’ve got a pretty good collection, turn them into breadcrumbs. I like to put them in the oven on a very low temperature (100F or so) and let them toast up a bit. Then, simply put the bread into a food processor and season however you see fit. Parsley, oregano and thyme with a pinch of salt and pepper work perfectly for this dish. But you can also leave them plain (just a touch of salt) and toss them with whatever seasoning you want.

Truffled Potato, Celery Root & Chanterelle Gratin w. Chard
Yields 4-6

Ingredients

2 cups peeled, sliced celery root (one medium celery root will suffice), sliced into thin rounds
2 cups sliced Yukon Gold potatoes (about two medium potatoes), sliced into thin rounds
4-6 tablespoons of extra virgin olive oil
2 cups sliced leeks (1 large leek), white section only
1/2 tablespoon garlic, minced
1/2 teaspoon nutmeg, freshly grated
1 tablespoon fresh thyme, picked and minced
1 cup gold chanterelle mushrooms, cleaned and sliced (if you can’t find chanterelles, or don’t want to spend the $$$, you can substitute with any kind of mushrooms)
1 bunch chard (or any bitter green), stems removed and sliced very finely
2 cups vegetable stock
1 1/2 cups cashew cream (see recipe below)
1 cup homemade bread crumbs
1 tablespoon fresh parsley, chopped
1 tablespoon truffle oil (white or black – I like white)
1/4 cup freshly grated Parmigiano cheese (optional)
Sea Salt and fresh ground black pepper to taste

Procedure

  1. Pre-heat the oven to 375F
  2. Blanch the celery root and potatoes in a large pot of salted water until al-dente, about 3 to 5 minutes. Drain and set aside.
  3. In a medium saute pan, heat the olive oil over medium heat. Add the leeks and garlic. Sweat until soft.
  4. Add the mushrooms allowing them to caramelize before seasoning. Then add a pinch of salt and fresh ground black pepper and stir well. Remove from pan and set aside.
  5. In the same pan, add a teaspoon of oil and a bit of garlic and saute the chard until it softens and turns a deep green.
  6. Now, pour a tablespoon or so of olive oil into a heavy bottomed pan, add the blanched celery root and potatoes and stir gently. You want to get a little bit of color so don’t fuss with it too much.
  7. Next add the leeks, garlic, mushrooms and chard incorporating everything together.
  8. Add the cashew cream, stock, nutmeg and thyme and simmer for about ten minutes (until the liquid has reduced slightly and thickened).
  9. Transfer the vegetables and cream mixture to an oiled gratin pan or casserole dish. Bake in a 375F oven until the celery root and potatoes are soft and creamy (about 20 to 30 minutes).
  10. Remove from the oven. Sprinkle evenly with the bread crumbs, parsley, and truffle oil just before serving. As noted in the intro, you can add a 1/4 cup of grated Parmigiano cheese as well.
  11. ENJOY

Copyright © 2011 David Wallace. All rights reserved.

Cashew Cream
Yields 2 cups

Ingredients

1 cup raw cashews, soaked in cold water for a few hours (in a pinch, you can soak them for a few minutes in very hot water).
1 cup of fresh, cold water
Pinch of sea salt

Procedure

  1. Rinse and strain cashews and place into a blender.
  2. With the blender on, add water slowly until it forms a creamy texture. You’re looking for the consistency of heavy cream.
  3. Season with salt.
  4. Line a strainer with two layers of cheese cloth.
  5. Pour the mixture into the lined strainer, tie the cheesecloth together, and squeeze through the strainer into a bowl. You will be left with a smooth “cream”, free of any graininess.

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April 23, 2011 Pan Seared Tofu w. Roasted Vegetables, Sauteed Kale, Farro & Lemon Garlic Sauce

Sometimes, you come home from work, you open your fridge and while there may in fact be a bevy of ingredients staring back at you, nothing seems to be saying, “hey you, cook me”. It was on one such an evening that I put this dish together. Tofu, has come to symbolize everything that people who aren’t vegan or vegetarian despise about the plant based diet. Is it mystery un-meat? Does it grow on the bottom of old sneakers? Must it always be followed by, “and steamed brown rice”? Well, to answer all of your questions as succinctly as I can, 1) no, 2) no and 3) NO. In many Asian cultures, Tofu is not seen as a meat replacement at all. It is a vegetable protein that has been made in the same traditional way for centuries (this guy knows what I’m talking about). You will often find it on menus along side meat, as well as in its place. Regardless, I have found that it tastes best when it is seasoned properly and is allowed to really take on the flavors of whatever it is you are pairing it with. In and of itself, it’s bland. But hey – so is chicken. And while good tofu doesn’t “taste like chicken”, it does taste good when treated right.

Roasted vegetables are a staple round these parts from November-May. We just can’t get enough. Once the weather gets warmer the roasted veg becomes grilled veg and the fun just continues all year long. Yay Vegetables. Side note – I really hate those Hillshire Farms “GO MEAT” commercials. Not because I don’t eat meat, but mainly because I don’t understand what’s going on in the commercial. Did these people just wake up? What’s GOING ON IN THERE???

A quick note about the sauce. It involves making a slurry, a classic technique employed to thicken sauces (among other things). Making a slurry is really simple.  Just mix equal parts kuzu or cornstarch and water, stirring together to form a runny, but slightly viscous mixture. You will then whisk this into the sauce and simmer it until the sauce reaches the desired consistency. Kuzu is the root of a vegetable native to China and Japan as well as the southern US.  It looks and feels like chalk, so you will first need to grind or crush it into a powder (I usually do this with a mortar and pestal – it takes about 5 seconds…).  Kuzu can be used in place of cornstarch which is highly processed and treated with chemical bleaches and toxic extracting agents.

Pan Seared Tofu w. Roasted Vegetables, Sauteed Kale, Farro & Lemon Garlic Sauce
Serves 2

Ingredients

For The Vegetables
2 Yukon Gold Potatoes, medium dice
2 Parsnips, roll cut (cut on a diagonal)
2 medium Carrot, roll cut (cut on a diagonal)
8 medium Brussels Sprouts, quartered
2 Garlic Cloves
Sprigs of fresh Thyme and Rosemary
2 Tablespoons Extra Virgin Olive Oil
1/2 Tablespoon Balsamic Vinegar
2-3 Good pinches of sea salt
Fresh ground black pepper to taste

For the Farro
1 cup Farro
2 cups vegetable stock (or water)
1 bay leaf (2 if you’re using fresh)
1-2 good pinches of sea salt
1 teaspoon extra virgin olive oil

For the Tofu
8oz Firm or Extra Firm Tofu – rinsed, dried, drained of its liquid (wrap in paper towel and then place a heavy object on top for 20-30 mins) and cut into triangles
3-4 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
Sea salt and fresh ground black pepper to taste

For the Sauce
2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
1 cup vegetable stock
1 clove garlic, minced
1 tablespoon of lemon juice
1 teaspoon lemon zest
1 sprig of fresh thyme, minced
1 tablespoon of kuzu or cornstarch dissolved in equal amount of water
Sea salt and fresh ground black pepper to taste

For the Kale
1 bunch Kale, stems removed, chopped into medium sized pieces
1 clove garlic, minced
1/4 teaspoon fresh chili
1 teaspoon extra virgin olive oil
1/4 cup of water

1 tablespoon of fresh chives for garnish

Procedure

  1. Pre-heat oven to 400F.
  2. Place an oven-proof roasting pan in the oven with a teaspoon or so of olive oil.
  3. In a medium bowl, toss vegetables with oil, vinegar, salt, pepper and herbs.
  4. Remove the roasting pan from oven, fill with vegetables, put back in the oven and roast for 30-40 minutes.
  5. Add oil to a small sauce pan, fill with farro and stir until completely covered.
  6. Add stock, bay leaf, salt and pepper.  Bring to a boil, then lower heat and cover, simmering until liquid has mostly evaporated but grains still have some firmness.
  7. In a medium sauce pan, add oil and garlic.  Sweat until fragrant.  Then add lemon zest and juice, cooking briefly.
  8. Add stock, herbs, salt and pepper.  Bring to a boil and reduce until 1/2-3/4 of the liquid has evaporated.
  9. Strain liquid into a bowl, put back in pot, bring back to a boil, reduce heat and slowly whisk in kuzu/cornstarch slurry.  Stirring constantly for a minute or so until sauce has thickened.  Cover and set aside.
  10. Meanwhile, in a medium saute pan, add oil over medium-high heat until it starts to shimmer.
  11. Add tofu to pan, searing first side for 5-7 minutes or until golden brown.
  12. Turn tofu over searing the other side.  Remove from pan and place on paper towel (to remove excess oil) and season well with salt and pepper.
  13. In the same pan, add a little more oil, the garlic and chili.  Saute briefly and add kale.  Add a little water to help the cooking process.  Season with salt and pepper.
  14. Plate, garnish with fresh chives and serve (refer to photo for plating suggestion).
  15. ENJOY.

Copyright © 2011 David Wallace. All rights reserved.

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